What Goes Into My Credit Score?
Last month I covered why credit scores have become important. In this issue I'll discuss what goes into a person's credit scores. But first I'll mention what doesn't go into credit reports and the credit scores that result from those reports. The credit reporting agencies do keep limited information about our past employment and job titles, but they have absolutely no information about how much income we make. So income is not a component of credit scores. The credit agencies also do not collect any information about our checking, saving, investment or retirement account balances. And they don't keep records of our other assets like homes and other property. So the amounts of assets we have accumulated in our life are also not a component of credit scores, however our assets and income are usually part of the lending approval process.
All the information that has been collected by the Big Three credit reporting agencies (Experian, Equifax & TransUnion) has been provided by some company or agency that we have done "business" with. That could include the banks that gave us our last few mortgages, car loans, and credit cards. And it could include government taxing agencies and courts. And it could also include the local hospital where we rang up a whopping bill for our last emergency room visit. Most information is from the last seven years, but there are some exceptions that remain on our reports for ten years.
The creators of credit scores do keep their computer programs secret; however they have provided some general hints about how scores are arrived at.
Listed in order of Importance:
1. Payment Habit – 35%
The largest component of our credit scores (35%) is based on payment habits. It is relatively simple concept. If I pay my bills exactly as promised, I will theoretically have the best possible credit scores (all other factors being equally positive). If I pay my bills a little late, or not at all, then, depending on the severity of my lapse, I can expect to have less-than-perfect scores. Credit blemishes pull down scores based on four factors: Recency, Size, Severity, and Number. Recent blemishes weigh-down scores more than old blemishes. Large-size payment lapses affect scores more than small. Severe blemishes like a 90-day late-payment, bankruptcy, foreclosure, collection, or lien take a bigger bite out of scores than say a 30-day late-payment. Having a number of any types of credit blemishes can hurt scores as well.
2. Balances Owed – 30%
Large balances owed, and high utilization of credit can affect 30% of our credit scores' makeup. If the combined balance of all accounts is high—especially on credit cards—then scores will be lower. If individual credit card balances exceed approximately 40% of the account's credit limit (this is called utilization), then scores will be lower. Likewise, if there are an especially large number of accounts with balances, scores will be lower.
3. Length of Credit History – 15%
Fifteen percent of our credit scores are based on how long we have used credit wisely, how old our oldest active accounts are, and the average age of all our active accounts. Most (young) people, who are just starting to use credit, will find that their scores are somewhat modest at first. Depending on how they manage their finances, their scores will slowly rise over time, as they acquire more positive experiences using credit. Conversely, if users new to credit are not careful, their scores can quickly plummet.
4. Types of Credit Used – 10%
This category accounts for only 10% of our scores' makeup. The scoring system rewards borrowers who have a history of using a mix of different types of credit. A person with superior credit will typically have experience with mortgages, installment loans (like car and student loans), and revolving debt (like credit cards and equity lines). Oddly, doing business with "consumer finance" companies, like Household Finance, American General, and the like, are viewed negatively. These companies frequently provide small installment loans through furniture, appliance and electronic stores.
5. New Credit – 10%
This category also only accounts for 10% of our scores. Recency and Number come into play here too. Having recent new accounts or a number of new accounts can diminish theoretical perfect scores. Likewise, recently applying for other credit—which is indicated by lender credit inquiries on a credit report—can diminish scores, as will having a large number of these inquires.
Next month I'll discuss some strategies to consider—to make your credit score the best it can be. If you can't wait for next month's newsletter, please don't hesitate to call me sooner.
Thanks for your interest, Dan
The House and Senate finally pounded out a bill that both could pass on Friday the 13th of February. The president signed the bill as promised on Tuesday after the Presidents' Day holiday. The law has many components to attempt to get the economy back on it's feet, and includes efforts to help housing.
This makes the third "stimulus" bill we've had since the beginning of 2008. To lay down some history, first we had the Economic Stimulus Act of 2008 (ESA) which was passed in February of 2008, and gave some people rebate checks, and also allowed Agencies Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac to purchase loans up to $729,750, and FHA to insure loans up to $729,750. These limits were designed to end 12/31/08. In July 2008 another law called the Housing and Economic Recovery Act of 2008 (HERA) was passed. This law included a component that allows larger (so-called High-Balance) loans also, and took over when the ESA loans ended. Unfortunately, it only allows loans up to $625,250, and in the case of Santa Barbara County, only allows loans up to $603,750. Underwriting for these loans in 2009 has become slightly easier than in 2008, but not by a lot. These "High-Balance" loans have interest rates that are approximately one-quarter to three-eighths higher than traditional Conforming loans that have a max of $417,000 in 2009. These traditional Conforming loans will almost always have the lowest interest rates of any home mortgage available in the market.
The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act (ARRA) is reinstating the $729,750 max loan amounts that Agencies Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac can purchase, and the $729,750 max loan that FHA can insure. This will hopefully help out all the people who were unable to take advantage of the short window of opportunity in 2008, and should help sell some homes, which should be supportive of values on more expensive homes up to a point. The most expensive homes will still struggle to find decent financing. It may take Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, the FHA, and the lenders we deal with a few weeks to make the necessary changes in their systems, but I am hopeful that we will be able to originate these larger loans by around late March.
The ARRA also includes components that give tax credits of $8000 to qualified first-time homebuyers who purchase in 2009, and unlike 2008, the credit doesn't need to be repaid unless the taxpayer sells the home within three years.
The ARRA also includes a nice tax credit for energy efficient windows, doors, furnaces, and air conditioners. The credit is for 30% of the cost up to a max credit of $1500. That means that $5000 of new double-pane windows for my seriously leaky house will only set me back $3500 after taxes. I'm definitely going to look into that benefit. Hopefully it will create some jobs too.
The these two tax credits probably won't help much to stimulate home sales for a couple reasons. New home buyers need the most help coming up with the down payment and closing costs for a home at the time escrow closes. And they need it shortly thereafter to pay for moving, painting and furnishing their new home. The tax credit doesn't come until several months later when the homeowner files their 2009 tax return in 2010. So they don't get the help when they need it the most, so it won't make the jump into homeownership an easier hurdle. A swing and a miss? No, I think it is still helpful, just not a homerun.
Thanks for your interest,
Dan
Even More Reasons to Watch Credit and Credit Scores
The 2008 Economic Stimulus Package is now old news and we are now operating on the Housing and Economic Recovery Act (HERA) signed in July of 2008. The temporary Jumbo-Conforming mortgage loans that went to $729,750 are now gone as of December 31, 2008. For 2009 HERA brings us Agency Jumbo "High-Balance" loans that in Santa Barbara County go to $603,750. Rates on these "High-Balance" loans started out for a week or so at rates just a little above Conforming loan interest rates. But the HERA law that created these loans also limited them to ten-percent of the dollar balance of loans that a lender can sell to Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, and lenders have since raised rates on these "High-Balance" loans to put the brakes on them. Old-school Jumbo loans with balances over $603,750 are a rare item, as banks have no place to sell them, and are reluctant to originate them and hold them in their already sickly portfolios of loans.
Many niche lenders have failed. Only some of those lenders were subprime lenders. The surviving lenders have reduced the variety of loans they offer, and have also increased their qualification standards. There has also been a lot of consolidation in the banking industry; Chase swallowed WAMU; Wachovia swallowed World, and then Wachovia was swallowed by Wells Fargo; Bank of America swallowed Countrywide. All lenders are increasingly focusing on credit scores, and pricing their loans accordingly. More than ever before, a one point difference in credit score can make a considerable difference in the interest rate, and consequently the interest cost, of a mortgage loan. So it pays to pay attention to your credit file and score.
Mortgage insurance companies are also requiring higher credit scores in California than in other states. The minimum FICO score for a loan at 85% loan-to-value is 700 in CA. For 90% loan-to-value, the mortgage insurers are requiring a minimum 720 FICO score.
There are hundreds of annoying websites that promise free reports, but don’t truthfully deliver. These look-alike sites pretend to be the real free site, but they are (in my opinion) deceptive opportunists at best or scammers at worst. The official free credit report site that was required by the Federal government FACTA Act in 2003 is: www.AnnualCreditReport.com.
Be aware that the law only requires the three credit reporting agencies to provide free credit reports once a year. They are not required to provide free credit scores. However, you can purchase a score from each of them, although I don’t recommend it. I only recommend purchasing the FICO® score available from Equifax. The scores from TransUnion and Experian are not true FICO® scores. Although the site has now been available for a few years, statistics show that millions of people have not accessed their free reports. So, following is a short step-by-step for pulling an Equifax credit report from AnnualCreditReport.com so you can get started today.
1. Go to the Home Page. Select California as your state and click on Request Report.
1. Go to the Home Page.
Select California as your state and click on Request Report.
2. Enter personal information on secure server.
3. Choose who you would like to order report from –
Equifax, TransUnion and/or Experian.
4. Personal Info Check.
I chose Equifax and was transferred to their site. Re-enter personal
info again.
5. Answer credit account questions to verify your identity. You will want to do this when you have access to your account records.
5. Answer credit account questions to verify your identity.
You will want to do this when you have access to your account records.
6. Choose whether to purchase your score or not.
You don’t have to purchase anything to see your free credit report
alone. Skip the expensive credit monitoring. Pay for score in next
screen.
Assuming that everything is good in your credit report today, I would recommend that you request your TransUnion or Experian report 4 monthsfrom now. If you have issues with your Equifax report now, then you maywant to check all three reports today for errors. Please keep in mind thatclosing accounts will generally lower credit scores, not raise them. You arevery likely to have questions about your report, so don’t hesitate to call oremail me with any questions.
Assuming that everything is good in your credit report today, I would
recommend that you request your TransUnion or Experian report 4 months
from now. If you have issues with your Equifax report now, then you may
want to check all three reports today for errors. Please keep in mind that
closing accounts will generally lower credit scores, not raise them. You are
very likely to have questions about your report, so don’t hesitate to call or
email me with any questions.
Prepay Your Mortgage or…..?
Last issue I discussed most of the different strategies that are available to accelerate the payoff of a home mortgage. You may recall that it is the simple payment of extra money on a mortgage, not some magical system or program, which pays off a real estate loan more quickly. But before you commit to this course of action—accelerating the payoff of your mortgage in the hopes of saving interest—please consider the following ideas.
The home mortgage interest deduction is considered by many financial experts to be the best and biggest tax break given to average middle-class taxpayers. (The interest deduction for credit cards and car loans was repealed years ago.) The argument is this: If you claim mortgage interest as an itemized deduction on your income tax return, then the federal government and the State of California are not charging you taxes on the money that you spend on mortgage interest. For example, a homeowner with a 6.50% loan and a combined federal and state marginal tax rate of 30% is effectively borrowing at a rate of 4.55% (calculation: 6.50% x (1.00-0.30) = 4.55%). Homeowners who do not itemize their deductions cannot realize this savings. Consult a tax expert for more details.
Before accelerating the repayment of a mortgage, ask yourself what other financial goals are important to you and whether you have a plan to achieve them. Am I saving enough for retirement? What if I need to make a major purchase? If you anticipate needing extra cash in the future to pay for a car, a college education, a wedding, or a home improvement project, and you have no plan to save for these extraordinary outlays, you might want to hold off making extra mortgage payments.
Inflation is another factor that must be considered, according to Jeffrey Sears, a Certified Financial Planner™ in Santa Barbara. “The concept of inflation is pretty simple,” remarked Sears. “Since a dollar today will be worth less tomorrow, inflation is the ally of the borrower but the enemy of the lender. Regular mortgage payments are made with future dollars of lesser value. Instead of prepaying a mortgage, why not save or invest the more valuable dollars today?”
Long-term, real (inflation-adjusted) appreciation in the value of residential real estate has greatly increased the wealth of many local homeowners. Depending on your age, the amount of your mortgage, and the extent of your retirement savings, there may be no need to worry about accelerating the payoff of your mortgage as you approach retirement.
Homes tend to appreciate over time, and the equity that builds up through loan payments and appreciation is not useful unless you are prepared to sell or refinance to withdraw some of that equity. Fortunately, with the advent of reverse mortgages, extracting equity in retirement is becoming less of a problem for home-owners. Call me if you have questions about reverse mortgages.
Setting Important Financial Priorities
Financial planners, including local Certified Financial Planner™ Jeffrey Sears, encourage home-owners to consider mortgage prepayments in the context of a larger financial plan. The following list of priorities is commonly set forth in a financial plan.
1. Establish an emergency fund equal to 3-6 months of your income, which will come in handy in case of a lost job, a medical emergency, or other major expense such as a car or home repair. Self-employed people and people in vulnerable industries (e.g., Hollywood writers) may want to put away even more.
3. Pay off consumer debt, such as credit cards balances and car loans, the interest on which is not tax-deductible. These types of liabilities will usually have higher interest rates than home mortgages.
4. Fully fund all retirement plans, especially 401(k) plans where there is an employer match. Employer matches are “found” money that should always be pocketed. Fully fund an IRA account every year in addition to your employer-sponsored plan. If you are unable to “max-out” your retirement accounts because you are funding multiple priorities, start by setting aside a percentage of your income, with an eventual goal of at least 10%. Retirement accounts provide two significant benefits over prepayment of a mortgage: 1) they can reduce current taxable income; and 2) their earnings compound tax-deferred or, in some instances, tax-free.
5. Contribute to tax-advantaged college savings plans, if appropriate. Contrary to actual practice in the U.S., saving for retirement should always come before saving for college. While prospective students or their parents can always borrow if college savings are inadequate, prospective retirees have only one option to borrow for retirement – a reverse mortgage.
Many people use the equity in their homes to make investments in other areas, whether in more real estate, a business venture, or the stock market. Financial author Douglas R. Andrew has made a career out of promoting this very concept, and has written a few books on the subject, for example Missed Fortune 101. Although his ideas run contrary to conventional thinking and won’t appeal to everyone, especially to risk-averse traditional savers, he certainly presents some interesting and insightful ideas about saving and investing for retirement.
At the end of the day we all have to choose a financial path that guides us, that reflects our personal goals and risk tolerance, and that makes us comfortable. But we shouldn’t determine our destination before considering all our options, some of which may be novel.
Money—not Magic—Pays Off Mortgage Faster
Many lenders and middleman companies offer loan repayment programs that differ from the Standard Monthly payment that most people have when they obtain a conventional first mortgage. The promise made is an earlier payoff, which in turn saves interest. Differences between these programs are confusing, and the claims made for them are often exaggerated. The examples below illustrate some alternative payment programs, plus a couple Do-it-Yourself options. Your payoff results will vary slightly from the examples given, due to differences in loan amount and interest rate.
1. Semi-monthly Payment
With this option, the Standard Monthly payment is divided in half and applied to principal on the 1st and 15th of each month, resulting in semi-monthly compounding of interest (as opposed to the monthly compounding of interest in the Standard Monthly payment).
Unfortunately, a Semi-monthly payment does little to reduce the life of a loan. On a $350,000 6½% 30-year loan converted to Semi-monthly, it takes 29 years, and 11 months to pay off. In other words, you knock just one month off the term, so it wouldn't make sense to pay someone to set up this kind of plan.
A Semi-monthly mortgage involves paying no extra money each year than you would with a Standard Monthly mortgage. You make 24 payments a year instead of 12, but they add up to the same annual total. By advancing the payment by half a month, you save very little interest—$5.42 in the first year using the example above. The difference grows over the years, but only by enough to knock one month off the term. This loan type is very rare, probably because the savings are so minimal.
2. Standard Biweekly
This is the most common form of accelerated payment option available from all sources, both bank-direct, and through middlemen. All that I am familiar with require the payment of a setup fee, and some require additional monthly fees.
3. Simple Interest Biweekly
This program combines the negligible benefits of biweekly compounding of interest similar to #1, and the 26 payments per year of #2. A Simple Interest Biweekly mortgage is one on which the borrower—every two weeks—makes a payment equal to half the Standard Monthly mortgage payment, just like the Standard Biweekly in #2. But in this case the payment is applied to principal every two weeks, resulting in biweekly compounding of interest instead of monthly compounding. A $350,000 6½% 30-year loan converted to a Simple Interest Biweekly pays off in 24 years and 2 months. Once again, the reduction in term is due almost entirely to the extra payment of principal every year—NOT due to the shorter two-week interest compounding period.
This payment option is rare. I know of only one lender who does this type of loan, and they charge a fee to set it up.
4. UFF Money Merge Account
5. CMG Homeownership Accelerator®
The CMG Homeownership Accelerator is a mortgage available through mortgage brokers and bankers that can be used like a checking account. It allows the user to deposit their income into the mortgage account which lowers the principal balance. During the month the user pays their bills out of the mortgage account, which causes the principal balance to rise again. Some interest is saved because interest is compounded daily, and some is saved because unspent monthly income left in the account drives the loan principal balance down.
6. DIY - Do-it-Yourself
Borrowers who like the idea of accelerating their payoff need not pay extra for the privilege; they can do it themselves. By making a double-payment once a year—based on the same $350,000 6½% 30-year example—they will pay off in 24 years, 4 months, just as if they had the Standard Biweekly in #2. This idea might appeal to people who receive annual bonuses, or who have seasonal income for example, and therefore might have extra money to apply to their mortgage once a year.
Alternatively, the borrower could choose to increase their monthly payment by adding one-twelfth (1/12th) of the amount of their Standard Monthly payment to each of their monthly payments. Our sample loan would pay off in 24 years, 2 months, just like the Simple Interest Biweekly in #3. This idea might appeal to salaried or wage-earner people who prefer payments that are level throughout the year for purposes of budgeting.
Because these DIY options aren't contractual obligations, the borrower has some flexibility if they need to easily revert back to the (lower) Standard Monthly payment. By the same token, this ease of switching may make it too easy for people who are not disciplined to make extra payments. Borrowers who find it difficult to stick to a DIY plan might consider an alternative payment plan administered directly by their lender.
Next month I'll discuss important reasons why you might NOT want to pay off a mortgage sooner, plus some other mortgage strategies.
Strategies for Maximizing Credit Scores
Last month I covered what goes into a credit score. In this issue I'll discuss some strategies that will help keep your scores as high as possible.
Check Your Credit Often!
One of the most important parts of managing our credit and credit scores is to monitor our credit on a regular basis. Statistics show that errors occur in a number of credit reports. And with identity theft on the rise, it's recommended that you check your credit report regularly for signs of fraudulent activity. As consumers we need to keep an eye on our credit reports to catch and have these errors corrected. It can take 2-3 months to resolve some errors, so a good practice is to check credit reports regularly, and to check months before actually applying for new credit.
Fortunately that can be done fairly easily—and for free—by visiting one central source website: www.annualcreditreport.com Thanks to the 2004 FACT Act, we can pull our credit report for free from each of the three Credit Bureaus once each year. There is no need to pay for a credit report, or to pay for "credit monitoring" services, if you take the time to manually check your credit on a regular basis. Don't be fooled by advertisements for imposter sites that promise "free" credit reports, as the free reports are only available if you signup and purchase other services like "Credit Monitoring." Keep in mind that the 2004 law only requires the three bureaus to provide free credit reports. It doesn't require them to provide free credit scores. You may choose to purchase your score through annualcreditreport.com —but it is not required—to obtain the free credit report.
A good strategy is to visit the central www.annualcreditreport.com three times each year. Each time you visit, pull just one of your three credit reports. Since most of our credit information is the same with all three credit bureaus, this strategy will allow you to monitor the majority of your credit over the course of the year. When you visit the site, you will be asked what state you are in, and then you will be asked for your name, birth date, social security number, and address. Next you will be asked which of the three credit reports you want to order. If this is your first time, then choose Equifax. I'll explain why in a moment. Next you will be given an opportunity to purchase your FICO credit score for $7.95. On the right of this page you will also be offered ongoing monthly credit monitoring for $7.95 per month, which I feel is unnecessary for most people. If you are curious about your score, or if you are considering applying for a mortgage soon, then a good strategy might be to purchase your one-time score. I don't recommend purchasing the scores that Experian and TransUnion sell to consumers, because they are not the industry-standard FICO score. Experian sells a PLUS score which ranges from 330 to 830, and TransUnion sells their VantageScore which uses a letter grade plus a number that ranges from 501 to 990. Because they both use a different number scale than FICO's 300 to 850 scale, they are difficult to compare to the FICO score consumers have become used to, making them confusing.In spite of rumors to the contrary, consumers may pull their own credit report through this website without fear of those inquiries lowering their credit score. So sit down and pull your Equifax report today and I'll remind you to pull your Experian report in 4 months, and your TransUnion report in 8 months. People without computer access can request their credit report by phone by calling a toll free number, (877) 322-8228.
Some Useful Tips:
If you've accidentally run past the 20-day grace period on your credit card bill, or the 15 day grace on your home mortgage, go ahead and make the payment ASAP anyways—you will still get dinged the late fee—but at least you won't end up with a 30-day late on your report. Lending Solutions Consulting estimates that a single 30-day late will lower a credit score 60 points. The most trouble-free strategy is to set up automatic payment with the bank, so you'll never be late, and never have to pay a late fee. Automatic payments are vital for consumers who travel a lot and aren't always around to make the payment on time. Keep in mind that once a late payment is recorded, later payment of the account will not remove the blemish. Also, paying off and closing an account that was previously late will not make the blemish go away either (although it may make you feel better).
The score considers both the age of your oldest account, and the Average Account Age. Resist closing older credit cards, even if you no longer use them—doing so can actually lower your score. Even if you are offered a new account with an attractive introductory interest rate, it is usually best to keep the old account open with a zero balance.
Opening more than a few new accounts within a short period of time will lower credit scores. A good strategy would be to not take on new accounts unnecessarily, and to limit the number of new accounts you take on, say in a given year.
Scores are higher for people who have experience using different types of credit, like credit cards, installment loans such as car and student loans, and mortgages, so don't avoid using credit, just use it carefully. Try to use a variety of different types of credit; some credit cards, an occassional car loan, and a mortgage.
Keep in mind that there is a lot of misinformation out there about what helps and hurts credit scores, so make sure you get your advice from a trusted source like this website. Good information is also available on the website of the Federal Trade Commission under tabs for Consumer Protection, and Consumer Information. Start at www.ftc.gov. FairIssac Co. also has free information on their website at www.myfico.com.
June 15, 2007 Dan Marchiando, mortgage loan expert
Why Should I Care about My Credit Score and Credit Report?
The decision process that occurs at the offices of mortgage lenders has become more and more computerized in the past 10 years or so, just like so many aspects of our life today. This trend has allowed mortgage lenders and other industries that have leveraged technology, to make better and faster decisions, sometimes at prices less than were possible in the past. Credit reports themselves are a great example of technology making a product cheaper. Credit reports in the early '90s used to cost about $35, but now cost as little as $10. Credit decisions that used to take weeks to analyze, in many cases can now can be done in a matter of minutes.
Mortgage lenders are not the only ones checking your credit
You probably knew by now that mortgage lenders rely on credit scores and credit reports. But did you know that credit card companies, insurance companies, utility companies, and employers also rely on credit scores? A credit score could make the difference between being offered a 14% interest rate or a 21% interest rate on a credit card. Insurance companies use scores to predict the likelihood that someone will file an insurance claim, figuring that someone in difficult financial straits is more likely to file an insurance claim. Utility companies use scores to decide whether to require an up-front deposit on new services. And employers look at credit scores as a measure of trustworthiness—perhaps steering clear of candidates who might be distracted by personal financial problems. A good credit score may indicate to an employer that a job candidate can manage finances and work within budgets; which are required skills in many fields.
Credit Agencies
Credit Reports
Credit reports are produced by companies that tap into the data that is stored by the Big Three credit agencies. These companies organize the data into (somewhat) readable reports, in many cases combining the information from all three agencies into a single summary report. 2004 was a good year for consumers, as government legislation required the Big Three credit agencies to make free credit reports available to consumers once a year.
Visit www.AnnualCreditReport.com
Credit Scores
Good Reasons to Watch Credit
? The good news, as you can see from the above chart is that the majority of people are already doing just fine managing their credit.
? Good credit and good scores can save money on mortgages, car loans & leases, and credit card rates.
? Good credit can streamline the lending process, allowing borrowers to dig up less documentation.
? Good credit can make insurance more available and cheaper.
? Good credit can make getting a job or promotion easier.
? A lot of reports have errors, so it pays to stay on top of them while they are fresh, and get them corrected ASAP. The agencies don't correct errors unless they are informed of the error, and asked to investigate and correct them.
? It can frankly be challenging, and take a fair amount of time to get errors corrected, so it pays to allow plenty of time to correct errors before applying for a new loan.
Next month I'll discuss what goes into a credit report and credit scores.
Contact Dan | Apply Securely Here | Improve Your Credit Score | Decipher Your Credit Report | Dan's Blog
Copyright © 2010 YourBestInterest.netPortions Copyright © 2010 a la mode, inc.Another XSite by a la mode, inc. | Admin Login| Terms of Use| Site Map
